Friday 18 December 2015

Inferno

The influence of Hell within society is perpetually prominent, whether it is through culture, art, religion, history or literature. The concept of Hell has been resilient through the eras that the initial ideas are constantly being revisited with the desire to be surpassed.



I've recently gained a fascination on the concept of Hell, this commenced with my interest in Dante's Inferno. I based my new collection on the creatures dwelling within the story, conceptualising Dante's idea of hell through clothing. My work explored the snakes and serpents in combination with the Tree people whilst showcasing an array of aspects portrayed in Inferno. This interest peaked when I was viewing Dore's illustrations of Inferno in Paris a few years back. This lead me to my research on social and cultural views in relation to Hell and the impact the 'afterlife' has on people. Below is a sneak peak into the 'Inferno' Collection. 

The idea of Hell has fascinated many people from the medieval period to classical antiquity, their ideals of hell have defined the notion for the forthcoming generations, and hell is a concept so resilient through the eras that the initial idea is constantly being revisited with the desire to be surpassed. Hell is a concept that most have been educated about; the idea has in some way been brought about and exercised within the mind. This notion alone is enough for the mind to wander and imagine the landscape and atmosphere of hell. Artists, sculptors, writers and inventors trying to mimic if not surpass the various concepts brought about of the ancients.
“Human beings all over the world believe in life after death, of the survival of the conscious personality after the body has ceased to function. Anthropologists, archeologists, classicists, analysts of the history of comparative religious agree that this true of all cultures, so far as we know, Some part of us, we believe, continues to exist somewhere. Beyond that simple statement, the particulars of afterlife existence vary from culture to culture, from crowd to crowd, through not so much as one might think”.

Throughout history a number of significant writers, scientists, painters, musicians and sculptures have depicted their ideas of hell based upon their cultural surroundings. All these ideals have similarities portraying that the idea of hell is somewhat shared. “This investigation is geographical rather than theological or psychological. What is hell thought to be like? How did it come to be through of that way? And how did its topography change with the centuries? The pull of the Pit on the creative mind has been extraordinary. Poets and artists have always taken an immoderate interest in Hell, and have explored it in some curious ways. Theologically, Hell is out of favor now, but it still seems more “real” to most people than Fairyland or Atlantis or Valhalla or other imagined places. This is because of the sheer mass and weight and breadth of ancient tradition, inventive fantasy, analytic argument, dictatorial dogma, and both simple and complex faith employed over a very long time – thousands of years – in the ongoing attempt to map the netherworld. The landscape of Hell is the largest shared construction project in imaginative history, and it’s chief architects have been creative giants – Homer, Virgil, Plato, Augustine, Dante, Bosch, Michelangelo, Milton, Goethe, Blake and more”

Literary writes such as Homer (The Odyssey) and Virgil (The Aeneid) have expressed their views of Hell, all their ideas are drawn upon from one another with the inclusion of religious motifs guiding their work. A number of similar ideals have been implemented depicting the common portrayal of hell that already exits. These writers have used their imagination to highlight the importance of Hell in society. It was from these two authors that the awareness of hell was recognised; they provided topographical insights through maps and illustrations displaying the areal view of hell and its inhabitants. Over the years a numbers of authors, artists, filmmakers and writers have assimilated their own perspectives of hell with those of these writers. This has allowed their concepts of hell to be further enriched with the amalgamation of contemporary ideals with the introduction of ‘new’ authors.


Dante Alighieri based his renowned work ‘Inferno’ of his vision of hell; the piece is taken from the epic poem ‘The Divine Comedy’ in the fourteenth century. Dante’s work has continued to fascinate generations throughout history allowing generations to emphasise similarities between Dante’s work and their own, through viewing Inferno as potent inspiration. Inferno is divided into nine circles of hell, each representing a different sin according to Dante such as lust, treachery, stealing, betrayal and so forth. ‘Dante has taken characters from his surroundings in Florence, antiquity and the biblical period such as Virgil, Plato, Aristotle, Judas, Cassius, Brutus and Beatrice, positioning them in the circle of hell he feels was most appropriate in parallel to their values and actions on Earth’. Dante plays the role of god in his Inferno through this ideal of stating which area of hell people are sent, his audience are able to understand as it is an idea that many would visit themselves as ‘vengeance is something we as humans can relate to’. “Hell, the place of punishment for sinners has always been taken much more literally, perhaps because it is easier to understand. If Heaven is spiritual, Hell is oddly fleshy, with tortures that hurt and an atmosphere that is, particularly during some of Hell’s history, excessively gross. But Hell also seems darkly intriguing in a way that Heaven does not”. Dante had described his image of hell so lucidly that it was dissected to enhance his idea through science, archaeology and art; Inferno was the base for many to layer upon and further develop Dante’s idea. ‘The archeological imagery Dante put into his scenery of Hell has captivated readers, modern publications of the Divine Comedy carry maps and diagrams, while illustrators have presented not only the characters and monsters of the story but also the wonderful underground embankments, moats, castles, paved tranches and the City Of Dis with the walls of red-hot iron. Galileo himself did a technical report of the structure of Inferno in 1587 as a playful student thesis.’ Thus conveying the original influence of hell envisaged by Dante lead others to also explore the topic to further understand Dante’s vision of Inferno and emphasise the notion of hell within various domains. The theory of Hell has been irrepressible that the early ideas are frequently being reassessed with the ‘aspiration to develop’ and practice the idea. Dante was a pioneer of revisiting the ideals of hell from previous writers and creating a less conventional outlook on the notion whilst still implementing the original essences of Hell that were already present from the work of Virgil.


Dante set a framework of hell through his literature, characteristics of his vision has been re-mastered through a number of artists such as Gustav Dore emphasising Dante’s influence on Western civilisation in relation to the concept of hell amongst his ‘Inferno’ series in the 1850’s. ‘The opinion of hell within society has been rather distressing’ bringing about a feeling of physiological discomfort alongside a sense of emotional turmoil which Dore sketched upon. Incorporating reliefs from antiquity into his work such as characters, shapes and more direct influence such as mimicking idea, Dore has created a vision of Hell based upon Dante’s inferno. Through taking an already existing work Dore has captivated people through providing a visual insight for Dante’s audience. ‘Dore etched a piece for each canto of Inferno, depicting the characters and surroundings Dante anticipated’. “Dante took every theme traced in this book – philosophic, mythic, Orphic, demonic, repulsive, fantastic, allegorical, grotesque, comic, psychosocial – and put them together with meticulous care for all time. His religious views were orthodox, but his imagination was not. Even if his artistic contribution had been limited to the radical step of marrying the classical attributes of Hades to those of the Christian Hell of the vision tours, it would be a milestone. But his influence went far beyond that.”

Society’s paradigm of the model hell is imbued with concepts from medieval literature and biblical recordings. Western culture throughout the ages were so fixated on the relics of ancient and medieval literature they imitated the model principles of the classics and were determined to exceed the basic ideals from such pieces which soon became the roots for most fundamentals in society in relation to hell. The main sources that provide this to be accurate are through visiting examples of more recent work influenced by hell and dissecting various elements to draw a parallel to first-born ideas. Through these examples it can be deemed that the influence of Hell within society is perpetually prominent, whether it is through culture, art, religion, history or literature. The concept of Hell has been resilient through the eras that the initial ideas are constantly being revisited with the desire to be surpassed.





Designer Tanu Vasu


Monday 9 November 2015

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Nothing is original. Steal from anywhere that resonates with inspiration or fuels your imagination. Devour old films, new films, music, books, paintings, photographs, poems, dreams, random conversations, architecture, bridges, street signs, trees, clouds, bodies of water, light and shadows. Select only things to steal from that speak directly to your soul. If you do this, your work (and theft) will be authentic. Authenticity is invaluable; originality is non- existent. And don’t bother concealing your thievery - celebrate it if you feel like it. In any case, always remember what Jean-Luc Godard said: “It’s not where you take things from - it’s where you take them to."
[MovieMaker Magazine #53 - Winter, January 22, 2004 ]” Jim Jarmusch 

Thursday 22 October 2015

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The framework of my latest collection is based upon iconography from Alchemy intertwined with futuristic themes. The collection explores a fundamental alchemical practice of liberating matter from its restricted properties into a further enhanced state. Through deconstructing existing garment shapes and re-mastering the form I have drawn a parallel to this alchemical practice.
Futuristic themes are explored through the manipulation of simple geometries into distinct forms, alluding to alchemical motifs through the arrangement of their structure. A series of individually crafted elements have created a distinct visual signature whilst retaining an artisanal sensibility. The arrangement created through this technique portrays motifs and symbols suggesting various principles of the art.
The collection maintains a innovative colour palette of copper, cream and black, focusing on the current state of metals and the gradual progression into a refined state.  


All elements of the collection are hand made, from rolling the coils and melting the coiled pieces to one another.


Wednesday 14 October 2015

Preview of the new Jac + Jack collection

Currently at the Jac + Jack HQ viewing their summer collection, inspired by vintage couture gowns deconstructed to modern minimalist forms. The work of Charles James and the debutant portraits  of Cecil Beaton create a foundation for this collection. 
The labels signature natural fibres are incorporated through the range with yarns sourced in Italy and India. 


 

Monday 5 October 2015

The rediscovery of Classical Antiquity; Without the influence of classical antiquity, fashion would cease to exist in its current state

The influence of Classical antiquity has defined many forthcoming generations, with new artists, sculptors, writers and inventors trying to mimic if not surpass the achievements of the ancients. The following generations viewed their ancients as potent inspiration whilst aspiring to be like them, this ideal has been carried on to create world movements such as the renaissance and neo-classicism. Dress styles from classical antiquity has defined the fashion industry for years with designers incorporating reliefs from antiquity into their work such as pattern shapes, techniques and more direct influence such as mimicking sculptures. Exploring the influence of classical antiquity in contemporary fashion to determine whether fashion would cease to exist today in the nature the industry creates a strong viewpoint many designers are intrigued by. To understand why classical antiquity has such a strong influence until the present day is a factor that manoeuvres over the industry.

I am exploring motifs and symbolism from Classical Antiquity to create a foundation for my new project, generations after the Classical period viewed their ancients as potent inspiration whilst trying mimic their ideas if not able to surpass them. The Classical period has fascinated me from a very young age; the cultural influences in art and fashion have in particular influenced my work over the years allowing me to discover my personal artistic style.

Designers perpetually express favor towards antiquity not only for aesthetic purposes but also for functionality. Designers also allow the ideals of this time to define their brand as the values and intriguing stories and creations from antiquity can be viewed as a vital tool to enhance design and production. The groundwork the ancients left their following generations are looked upon and have been constantly renewed for centuries, contemporary designers use this foundation in combination with current technologies such as 3D printing, digital printing and innovative fabrications. The distinct elements from antiquity are successful in design hence the constant allusion to the era.


 





Thursday 1 October 2015

"Music is a moral law. It gives soul to the universe, wings to the mind, flight to the imagination, and charm and gaiety to life and to everything." Plato


Nicholas K - Opens NYFW

One of my favourite brands Nicholas K opened NYFW, Below are some images from the incredible show...

What: Nicholas K spring/summer 2016 runway show
When: Thursday, September 10th, 9 AM 

Where: The Gallery at Skylight Clarkson Square


INSPIRATION:
BASE JUMPER
ZEPPELIN
PARACHUTES
FREE FALL


PALETTE:
MIDNIGHT BLACK
STORM GREY
LUNAR GREY
MARTIAN STORM
SUNSET ORANGE
AERIAL BLUE
STRATUS BLUE
SANDSTORM BEIGE
NIMBUS WHITE


COLLABORATIONS:
SILHOUETTES / DETAILS:
OVERSIZED  TENT DRESSES
ZEPPELIN SKIRTS
FLIGHT SUITS/ PANTS
PONCHOS
ASYMMETRICAL SKIRTS
DRAWCORDS/ CINCH DETAILS
PARACHUTE CORDS
WRAP SHIRTS
LEATHER STRAP HARNESSES
UNEVEN PATCHWORK PANELS


FABRICATIONS:
PARACHUTE RIPSTOP NYLON
SHEER HERRINGBONE COTTON
SANDBLASTED DIP DYED DENIM
SHEER COTTON ECATS
DIP DYED SILK SATINS
DISTRESSED VINTAGE LEATHER